Church of St George on Perun – Dugi Rat

Along the Adriatic coast, close to Split, lies Mount Perun. It stretches from the river Žrnovnica to the mouth of the Cetina near Omiš, a length of 17 km. In times past, the Poljica Republic considered this hill its own. On the western side, above the quarry in Žrnovnica, stands the small church of St George, from where a magnificent view opens onto Stobreč, Split, Kaštela and Žrnovnica.

The highest peak of the hill is Križ, at an altitude of 533 metres. At the foot of the hill lie: Split, Žrnovnica, Strožanac, Podstrana (Lower), Grljevac, Sveti Martin, Mutogras, Bajnice, Krilo-Jasenice, Jesenice, Dugi Rat, Duće, Omiš, Donje Sitno, Srinjine and the village of Tugare.

This entire hill lies within Poljica, which is divided into Lower Poljica – to the south, and Middle Poljica – to the north.

The hill was named after the Old Slavic deity Perun.

The Church of St George on Perun

Above Gornja Podstrana, on the edge of a ravine, stands the early Romanesque church of St George. It is one of four old Croatian churches built along the mountain ridge from Žrnovnica to the Cetina. Alongside this church there are also the churches of St George at Perunsko, St Maximus in Jesenice, and Our Lady of Sorrows (Stomorica) in Duće.

The exact period of the church's construction is not known, but it is believed that it dates from no later than the 11th century. It was built in a rustic style, primitively, with irregular and asymmetrical lines, from material most likely taken from a nearby prehistoric burial mound. Many years later (in modern times) an outdoor altar was built on the south side, and the church was fully restored. The walls have been plastered, and a new bell-cote with a bell has been added to the church.

St George is the patron saint of Poljica, and in Podstrana two small churches on Mount Perun are dedicated to him. There is the church we are currently writing about, and another, about 4 km away, on the western peak of Perunsko. Although the locations of both churches are morphologically similar, their archaeological surroundings and local customs connected with the veneration of St George differ. The church of St George at Vršina stands on the western edge of a prehistoric semicircular burial mound, surrounded by medieval graves in which, besides Christian burials, non-Christian burials were also established. The feast of St George, with the blessing of the fields, is celebrated there on 3 May, which corresponds to the feast day as calculated before the calendar reform of 1582.

The second small church, the one at Perunsko, was built within the area of the so-called Duga gomila (Long Mound), on the foundations of an ancient sanctuary of Perun. This is a location where no traces of graves have been found, and services are held there on the feast of St George, 23 April.

At Vršina, the celebration with a procession, which climbed from the village to the church along the old village path, had greater local prestige than the one at the church of St George at Perunsko. Until the middle of the 20th century, this celebration was also accompanied by village music. This pilgrimage tradition honouring St George has recently been enriched by the devotion of the Way of the Cross.

Besides the ceremonial processions, the hill also attracts many tourists eager for adventure and for enjoying the natural surroundings. The paths over the hill have become well trodden over time, but even so, for a safe climb you should make proper inquiries, prepare well and consult a professional guide. To enjoy nature with as little risk as possible, be sure to prepare in good time.

The view from Mount Perun is beautiful, no matter which direction you look. If we had to choose, and say where the most beautiful view opens up, we would choose the direction towards the sea and the islands that lie in front of the hill.